I was a bit surprised when we rolled into the camp ground, the spaces were close together and apparently everyone and their extended families were eager for a similar reprieve. This is where I remembered that I am completely capable of forcing myself to relax. Perhaps it sounds like an oxymoron but no, I can do it. Our lot was clean, with a nice large fire-pit and relatively level tent platform.

Instead of setting up right away we sat on our bench and cracked open some beers. Unwinding from our mutually hectic weeks we allowed ourselves to simply enjoy this new, yet temporary residence.

Our neighbors on one side have a seasonal lot, four months out of the year they come and go as they please. A 300 pound 5’3″ hairdresser and a 6’6″ giant live there. Both really nice and eager to share their honey Jack Daniels…I love how life never let’s me forget that wherever I go, people are there to surprise me.

As the night wore on we skewered meat and veggies and caught up on life. In the middle of the campground was a very large group of people, kids and dogs with fires twice as high as ours. Matt had gone over to them earlier asking if we could purchase some firewood, and they gave it to us refusing to accept anything. Well as the night wore on and they got louder and louder, we both kept chanting “they gave us wood, they gave us wood.” Eventually at around 4 am with their party still in full swing I started praying that they would pass out from all the alcohol they were consuming. No luck. Hopefully tonight will be a different story.

So I guess we are, as my older brother would say ‘phamping’ instead of camping haha. But hey, if I can look up from my campfire and see brilliantly lit stars, I’m still ( yes I’m gonna say it) a happy camper!

We left Jerusalem several days ago, stopped in Bethlehem and ended up in Nazareth. Instead of a hotel we stayed in an a mansion that was being converted into a hostel. It had incredible architecture as it was a few hundred years old! During our days we explored spectacular sites, and once again the evenings held new faces, interesting food and good discussion. Both Israelis and Arabs were full of the interest and desire to share. What I learned from these talks will have to be shared at a different time as I still need to digest and gain the perspective that only distance allows me.

Our final full night in Israel was spent in a hotel on the top of a mountain overlooking the Dead Sea. Both jewish and Beduihn people camped around us in enormous tents. Their Seder celebrations were heard and experienced by us long into the night.

Here the landscape took my heart and made me feel great joy. The vastness of the desert and the sea surrounding us. The heat coming not only from the sun but in some cases visibly from the earth was an experience unto itself. There is an emptiness in the desert that seemed to me filled with life and the promise of a rugged yet peaceful experience. Flash floods occur there often causing the landscape to alter itself. Deep rifts and caves are everywhere which sparked my imagination and drove me to think of artwork to complete in the future.

Unfortunately we were unable to swim in the Dead Sea, group dynamics and the planning had not been put into the idea. Fine, I will just have to return!

Today we woke up early (big surprise) left our mountain and made the three hour drive to the Jordanian border. We crossed without incident, met with a new driver and headed deep into the desert to a small town about thirty minutes outside of Petra. We plan on spending the whole day there tomorrow, soaking up the enormous site. The site is so vast and filled that at this time a mere 17% of it has been excavated.

Our hotel here is another story all together. A five star resort boasting multiple restaurants, pool and Turkish bath…ohh yes, a welcome change. My friends and I headed immediately to the spa where we endured marble steam rooms with flowing water and a soap massage. My friend pointed out that a career change is in order so we can afford this a couple times a year…no argument there!

After lunch (a chicken giro and freshly pressed pomegranate juice) the group scattered to more personally interesting destinations. I found myself with a lovely woman named Candice – a native of Canada and mother of six. We decided to stay in the old city to look at the architecture, meet interesting people and shop a bit. I found a pair of handcrafted earrings that seemed to set my world right and I
guiltily realized that the endorphin rush soothed my disappointment
at not being able to get to the wall:) ahhhh…..the life and emotional
state of a shopper.

After returning to the hotel and meeting the rest of the group, two
of my friends and I went in search of an ATM. I was surprised to find that we ended up in the old city, my friends hadn’t experienced it yet and I discovered a rush of excitement at showing them where I had been during the day. The majority of the shops were closed, however many people still meandered. We passed by a leather shop that sold belts and purses and I noticed a young man sitting at a table hard at work sewing. I quickly pulled my friends in to look around. The man was 25 years old and about 6’4″ tall. He told us that his store had been passed down to him and that he had started working when he was 15 years old. He carried a humble sense of pried when he talked about the shop’s history. The items he was producing were of extremely good quality. I do believe I will return there and make a purchase!

After talking for a while and snapping some pictures, I remembered that there was an ATM by the Western Wall. We passed several more shops and declined a few offers of tea or coffee before arriving – only to find the ATM out of order. My friends noticed that there was no line at the entrance and after speaking with the guards they discovered that we were indeed allowed to enter!

This entrance was a large tunnel that smelled of mold and the earth, both welcome smells and in a strange way quite awakening to my senses. The tunnel ended and there I was! The wall off to the left, men’s side separated from the women’s by a metal divider. I wrote a few prayers for my loved ones, and approached feeling the whole while a deep sense of reverence. My friends and I stood in front of it watching women praying and after a short while I found a spot where I could stand up against it.

I have to say at this point that I am not one who follows any religious beliefs, I am a true earth baby and scientist to boot! However the feeling that took me was one of gentle warmth, I’m not quite sure how to put it into words, maybe it had something to do
with how many people were praying at once. I was moved. I sent up
my prayers and put the written ones in the cracks of the stones. I had a great sensation of joy, forget the earrings, this was what I had come here to do!

As we walked back up the Via Delarosa an insence shop keeper invited us to sample some smells and spices, these were, undeniably wonderful! (One in particular seemed like it would go well on popcorn:)

We also finally accepted an offer for tea in a cafe. The three of us sat for almost two hours talking about life and the trip ahead. Around midnight we called an end to the full, full day and headed back up the windy roads and hundreds of stairs. About halfway up we came across an old man leaning against the railing, breathing hard with groceries and giant water bottles strewn around his feet. We quickly offered our assistance and got him up to his home. Once there his wife and family insited on having us in for water, curiosity most certainly got the better of us so we stepped inside. An open stone courtyard led into a very small living space. Here we learned about a family of eight living in two rooms. The gentleman showed us family photos while his wife insisted on sharing her kitchen view. I can only imagine what it would be like washing dishes everyday with a perfect view of the citadel! This was most certainly one of the richest days I have ever experienced.

Later that morning as I fell into bed I reflected on the fact that our evening had held us with beautiful sights, exotic smells, delicious tastes, interesting textures and that we had experienced a heart aspect of the city – it’s wonderful people!